Life is like a book, and as with any book there are chapters. The same applies to things like careers and in this case a blog. As you can see the site has a new design, hopefully a bit more polished than the last. The design and format of the site should not reflect more of a magazine feel, as the articles I publish are more equivalent to magazine articles than short blog entries.
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The Ingredient of the Week is ascorbic acid, also known as Vitamin C.
L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) |
(For earlier discussions of Vitamin C, see here and here.)
Ascorbic acid occurs naturally in both plants and animals, but humans lack the ability to synthesize it so it must be obtained through our diet. Ascorbic acid is required for numerous biochemical pathways in the human body, including the biosynthesis of collagen, which is an important structural component of connective and epithelial tissue (which includes skin). A deficiency in Vitamin C gives rise to scurvy, a potentially fatal disease if not treated in time.
James Lind, a Scottish physician who carried out some of the first recorded clinical experiments, showing that citrus fruits could be used to treat and prevent scurvy. |
Oxidation of ascorbic acid; last step carried out in the presence of a metal ion, in this case silver (Ag+). |
One way to preserve the activity of Vitamin C is to combine it with other antioxidants, the idea being that the presence of other antioxidants will compete for reaction with free radicals. An example of such an antioxidant is Vitamin E (also known as tocopherol).
alpha-Tocopherol (Vitamin E) |
Cross section of epidermis |
Cellex-C High Potency Serum (see below for ingredient list) is the original Vitamin C serum, introduced in 1994. It is a straightforward formulation of 10% ascorbic acid in water, along with acetyl tyrosine (an amino acid), zinc sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, and bioflavanoids derived from green tea (Camellia sinensis). It is free of any extraneous ingredients: it is fragrance- and colorant-free, as well as being free of preservatives.
Cellex-C High Potency Serum (available in Toronto at The Anti-Aging Store) |
Dr. Lisa Kellett is a well-known dermatologist based in Toronto. Along with a cosmetic dermatology practice, she also has her own skin care line. Thanks to Helen Vong, editor-in-chief of TheSkiny.com, I got the chance to review Dr. Kellett's Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum (see below for ingredient list).
Kellett Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum (available in Toronto at DLK on Avenue; also available online HERE) |
The form of Vitamin C found in the Kellett serum is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is an oil-soluble derivative of ascorbic acid. As tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is oil-soluble, it can penetrate the skin much more readily than ascorbic acid. According to the formulators of this serum, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate penetrates the skin three times higher than ascorbic acid, when both are applied at the same concentration. The Kellett serum contains additional antioxidants, Vitamin E (tocopherol), green tea extract, and ethylhexyl ferulate (an oil-soluble form of ferulic acid, a plant-derived antioxidant). The combination of antioxidants acts to stabilize each other and thus increase their overall effectiveness, as well as increase the shelf-life and stability of the formulation.
Finally, the Kellett serum contains tridecyl salicylate, an oil-soluble derivative of salicylic acid, a chemical exfoliant which serves to further refine skin texture. It is free of fragrance, colorants, and preservatives.
The Kellett serum is comparable to SkinCeuticals C+E Ferulic Skin Serum (see earlier review here). Although the Kellett serum comes with instructions to apply every other night, I decided to follow the same regimen as with the SkinCeuticals serum, i.e. applying in the morning, followed by SPF 30 sunscreen over top, before heading out for the day, the idea being to use the antioxidants in the serum to protect skin against oxidative damage from environmental exposure during the course of the day. However, due to the presence of the salicylate, those with sensitive skin should stick with applying the serum at night, and be sure to wear sunscreen during the day.
Because this is a silicone solution, it is appears as a very thin, oily liquid that absorbs quickly with a very fast dry-down, so you have to spread very quickly before it absorbs. When I first started using this, I used about 5 drops, but found that after about a week of this regimen, I started to break out and I was getting a lot of plugged pores. From long experience, I know that silicone-based formulations don't work well on my oilier, stress-prone skin type, and so I was not surprised that I had this initial reaction to the Kellett serum. (Besides the breakouts, too much of it makes my skin feel uncomfortable and slightly itchy.) I cut back to 2-3 drops per application, working quickly to apply a very thin film, and that has worked out better for me - no breakouts and far fewer plugged pores. If you have a similar issue with silicone-based formulations, I think the key to this one is to apply very sparingly.
The Kellett serum definitely helps to boost radiance and to refine skin texture. Unlike the Cellex-C serum, the Kellett serum is colourless. More importantly, it does not appear to change colour over time, and it does not need to be refrigerated. The Kellett serum has almost no odour at all, a big plus compared to the SkinCeuticals serum, which had a strong, unpleasant odour of amines, similar to uncooked hotdogs. This serum is recommended for its ease of use, and its anti-ageing and skin-protective effects.
*In this review: Cellex-C High Potency Serum was purchased by me; Kellett Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum courtesy of TheSkiny.Com and DLK on Avenue. Thank you to Helen Vong, editor-in-chief of TheSkiny.Com for the opportunity to review the Kellett serum. This review is cross-posted to TheSkiny.Com, an e-magazine dedicated to the latest in beauty and dermatology - please check it out here!
***
IngredientsCellex-C High Potency Serum: water, ascorbic acid, acetyl tyrosine, zinc sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, bioflavanoids (from Camellia sinensis).
Kellett Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum: cyclomethicone, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, tridecyl salicylate, dimethiconol, hexyldecanol, bisabolol, cetyl cetyl hydroxyproline palmitate, stearic acid, rapeseed sterols, tocopherol, ethylhexyl ferulate, Camellia oleifera (green tea) extract.
A couple months ago, I was hunting through the magazine racks at the
bookstore, and stumbled across this title that I had never seen before.
|
The Economist has always been one of my favourite publications, and I
read it whenever I have the chance, but as the title suggests, it is
mainly concerned with economics, business and politics, with a tiny
sprinkling of "lighter topics" in the last few pages of the magazine. I
was intrigued by "Intelligent Life" because it is under The Economist
brand, but it covers a wide range of topics outside of the regular
purview of The Economist: culture, the arts, travel, and in particular, fashion and style! Who would have ever thought a magazine associated with The Economist would talk about fashion?
In the March/April 2013 issue, there was a fantastic article entitled "Clothes: A Manifesto" by Rebecca Willis (read it here).
It is a hugely fascinating article on many different counts as it is sums up the results of a "straw poll" survey about what real women want from fashion. They really managed to capture the current mood as I am seeing it when I look at the blogs in my sphere of acquaintance: that women are looking for good quality, functional and beautiful clothing and finding such clothing these days is a Herculean task. It is sharply critical of the fashion industry as failing to listen to the women they are supposed to be catering to and for force-feeding us mountains of clothes that are badly designed and poorly made. Here are a few favourite quotes from the article along with my personal thoughts.
Do you have a fashion manifesto, or are you in the process of forming one?
It is a hugely fascinating article on many different counts as it is sums up the results of a "straw poll" survey about what real women want from fashion. They really managed to capture the current mood as I am seeing it when I look at the blogs in my sphere of acquaintance: that women are looking for good quality, functional and beautiful clothing and finding such clothing these days is a Herculean task. It is sharply critical of the fashion industry as failing to listen to the women they are supposed to be catering to and for force-feeding us mountains of clothes that are badly designed and poorly made. Here are a few favourite quotes from the article along with my personal thoughts.
"Women are sick of low quality, overpriced, poorly made, ill-fitting clothes that don't last"
This is my common gripe these days. When I have the chance to browse the fashions at the mall, I am always disappointed to find how poorly made everything seems to be. Even J. Crew, my long-time favourite has started to let me down in recent years. The quality has almost completely disappeared from their regular line and only glimmers of the original quality may be found in their astronomically-priced Collection line. Tailored items that used to be fully lined in acetate and sometimes silk are now unlined, or else lined in polyester that is suffocatingly hot to wear. Jackets that used to have self lining or silk repp tie lining under the collar now have the felt interfacing exposed for all to see (I think they are trying to convince people this is normal but it is not! It is a cheap shortcut!). Fabrics that used to be thick and luxuriant to the touch are now flimsy or coarse, and often with a synthetic content.
Now: Blythe silk blouse, J. Crew spring 2012. Made of very thin, sheer silk. The fabric shredded after the first wash, which was done by hand in cold water with delicate wash detergent. |
I suspect this decline in quality has to do with the push to match the output of fast fashion retailers like Zara and H & M, who bring new inventory in every few weeks. It might also have something to do with the push to globalize and meet the demands of populations around the world. Something has to give and I guess from the management's point of view, quality is the first thing to go.
"When we asked women to rate their interest in fashion and style out of 10, style trumped fashion overwhelmingly."
YSL's quote, "Fashions fade, style is eternal" holds true, and I think it is the reason why style icons like Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis have such enduring appeal: these were women who were absolutely assured of their personal style.
Audrey Hepburn in trademark funnelneck coat. |
Jackie O in classic white shift dress and Ferragamo shoes. |
However, I think most women can attest to the fact that finding one's personal style is pretty difficult, especially in this age, when a woman is expected to wear many different hats all at once: career woman, domestic goddess, wife/girl friend, mother, etc. This is the reason I was drawn into the world of personal style blogs, because they are supposed to give a glimpse into the style of the average woman. Fashion magazines like Vogue present highly stylized images that are beautiful to look at but have very little to do with real life. However, even in the world of style blogs, it seems like many are becoming more and more like a high fashion magazine and have little to do with real life. I find that the best style blogs are the ones by real women with lives and careers outside of the fashion industry, the ones that discuss the little things and small events that make up everyday life and how a good outfit can carry that person through the day.
"What is surprising...is how poorly served older women still feel by the fashion industry."
This is so very true. I often feel completely at a loss when I look over the clothes available at the malls. Most new fashions are directed to women in their teens and 20s, and are modelled by girls who are barely 20 years old. Most fashions which are marketed to the woman who is in her late 30s and upwards are completely dull and uninspiring. I have this to say to fashion retailers: just because we are over 35 does not mean that we want to be invisible!Anyway, I wanted to share this with you and find out if you are also thinking similar thoughts. My own fashion "manifesto" so far is to try to stay true to my personal vision of myself and not to be swayed by current fads. It helps to unsubscribe from all these emails trumpeting "new! just in!" and it also helps that I am no longer reading the popular style blogs. It also helps that I no longer look at H & M and Zara, and I have cut back severely on J. Crew. At the moment, I am coming up empty-handed: there is nothing that seems to suit my vision of my personal style, and that comes up to my standards of quality and fit, while remaining within budget. I guess it will be an on-going quest.
Do you have a fashion manifesto, or are you in the process of forming one?
***
Intelligent Life is a bimonthly magazine. The content is available for free at www.moreintelligentlife.com
but I highly recommend getting your hands on the print magazine if you
can. The thoughtful design and photography, none of which can be seen
online, make it more than worth the price. The style section is
especially informative as it is written by people who understand the
industry but are writing it with a balanced perspective that is
universally appealing. The current edition features a fascinating
profile on Sarah Burton, the designer who took over Alexander McQueen's
design house after his death.
Happy Friday!
Happy Friday!
This week's Ingredient is phenoxyethanol.
2-phenoxy-1-ethanol |
As mentioned in last week's review of parabens,
it is becoming more and more popular to market products as being
"paraben-free". In such products, phenoxyethanol is commonly used as a
replacement for parabens in the formulation. Seeing as its popularity as
a preservative is only bound to rise in the face of all the negative
press regarding parabens, it is worth taking a closer look at
phenoxyethanol.
Phenoxyethanol acts as a bactericide, by inhibiting synthesis of nucleic
acids in bacteria, as well as acting on bacterial cell walls by causing
them to become more permeable to potassium ions (see Gilbert et al., Microbios. 1977;19(75):17-26; Microbios. 1977;19(76):125-41.).
It is effective against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria
as well as yeast. It is also used as an antiseptic, tissue preservative,
and organic solvent. It is naturally occurring in certain green teas.
Phenoxyethanol is present in concentrations of up to 5% in a skin care
formulation, typically in concentrations of around 1%; in Europe, it is
allowable in concentrations up to 1% with the provision that it may be
included in higher concentrations if it is to be used for other purposes
besides a preservative (see J. Am. Col. Toxicol. v. 9, no. 2, 1990; link)
The main selling point of phenoxyethanol is that is does not have the
weak estrogen-mimicking activity of the parabens. From the formulator's
point of view, although it is slightly more expensive than parabens, it
has similar formulation characteristics to the parabens, making it a
fairly straightforward replacement (I should mention here, the cost of
raw ingredients for creating skin care products is a major factor when
deciding what ingredients to include in a formulation).
It is accepted as a safe cosmetic preservative by government regulatory
agencies in the U.S., Europe and Japan. However, it has not been
entirely free of controversy. Like many other organic solvents,
phenoxyethanol is known to be a depressant of the central nervous system
and an irritant that may cause vomiting and diarrhea, if exposed at
high enough concentrations. In 2008, the FDA published a warning against
Mommy's Bliss Nipple Cream for use by nursing mothers, as it contained
both phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin, another preservative known to
have harmful effects on the central nervous system (link: original FDA report).
Many children's toiletry products that are marketed as paraben-free
contain phenoxyethanol as the preservative. An example is the Treehouse
body lotion I reviewed earlier (see here).
Treehouse Unscented Body Lotion by Nature Clean
(see review here)
|
When deciding what skin care products to buy for yourself or your
family, one has to balance risk versus benefit. As with the parabens,
the precautionary principle applies. In the case of children's products
like a nipple cream or a lip balm, something that is obviously going to
be ingested by a young child, then it is definitely not worth the risk of exposure. (As mentioned in my review of the Treehouse lotion here,
one has to be particularly vigilant about what chemicals children are
exposed to.) However, for most other products that are going to be
applied topically to either skin or hair, then the presence of
phenoxyethanol is probably not a significant concern since the amount of
phenoxyethanol absorbed through the skin is likely far too low to
trigger the symptoms noted above.
As always, I continue to look for safe alternatives and will report as I
find them. I have an extensive review coming soon on a series of
products that does not contain either parabens or phenoxyethanol -
please stay tuned!
The past few years have seen an explosion of bright colour, to the point
that it started to feel like sensory overload. Not surprisingly, the
fashion pendulum has started to swing the other way. Black and white is
one of the major trends for spring/summer 2013.
I used to work in a very conservative, corporate environment, which was reflected in my day-to-day wardrobe. These days, I can dress much more casually but I can also be more creative. Being a busy mother on the go means that there is the constant temptation to slide backwards into wearing jeans and tee-shirt all the time - it's easy, and takes zero thought and effort. However, I have read numerous studies that show that people who work outside of a traditional office setting get more accomplished if they make the effort to dress up. It would be nice to find an easy "uniform" that is comfortable enough to let me keep up with the kids, while still looking polished enough for getting some serious work done. and also conveying something about my personal style. On top of that, the outfit has to be age appropriate - I am not looking for crazy trends here. The combination of black and white really speaks to me as it is so sharp looking but still all in neutrals. Plus, I have always been fond of outfits with a high contrast, graphic punch. Here is a recent outfit....
Although designers were showing looks with head-to-toe black and white,
including all the accessories, I find it is a little harsh in real life
and I suspect it will look dated pretty soon. I like to break it up with
accessories in a softer colour, like rich cognac brown.
When wearing a palette of black and white, I thought it would fun to
wear a bright, sheer lip colour and then keep everything else neutral.
The black/white palette looks great on men too. I got this shirt for M a
while back. I love black and white gingham, it looks cool, crisp and
sharp all at the same time. We decided to punch it up a bit with some
pattern play.
Are you partaking in black and white these season?
|
I used to work in a very conservative, corporate environment, which was reflected in my day-to-day wardrobe. These days, I can dress much more casually but I can also be more creative. Being a busy mother on the go means that there is the constant temptation to slide backwards into wearing jeans and tee-shirt all the time - it's easy, and takes zero thought and effort. However, I have read numerous studies that show that people who work outside of a traditional office setting get more accomplished if they make the effort to dress up. It would be nice to find an easy "uniform" that is comfortable enough to let me keep up with the kids, while still looking polished enough for getting some serious work done. and also conveying something about my personal style. On top of that, the outfit has to be age appropriate - I am not looking for crazy trends here. The combination of black and white really speaks to me as it is so sharp looking but still all in neutrals. Plus, I have always been fond of outfits with a high contrast, graphic punch. Here is a recent outfit....
J. Crew Nolita white denim jacket; J. Crew black/ivory stripe silk slip dress (from a couple years ago, the name escapes me) |
Wallace & Barnes leather belt (old) |
Bag'N'Noun mini tool bag; J. Crew leather ballet flats (old) |
Clinique Chubby Stick Intense in "05-Plushest Punch", blotted down to a stain - sheer but still very intense (reviewed earlier here). |
Boss dress shirt in black/white gingham; Boss tie in pale tan/black/red check. |
This week's featured Ingredients are food-grade preservatives sometimes
used in cosmetics and beauty products: benzoic acid, sorbic acid,
levulinic acid, and their related salts.
Benzoic acid has a long history, having been discovered back in the sixteenth century. It is the chief component of benzoin gum, a resin derived from several species of trees in the genus Styrax. It is also found in many other plants, particularly plants with berry fruit (e.g. cranberries, bilberries). Its antimicrobial effect was first noticed in 1875, and it has been used as a food preservative since then.
Salts of benzoic acid, e.g. sodium benzoate and potassium benzoate, are
preferred as preservatives, as they are water soluble; they are commonly
used in processed foods and drinks. In a water-based solution, the salt
dissociates into the metal ion (sodium or potassium) and benzoate ion.
Benzoic acid and benzoate are effective as preservatives at acidic pH
levels.
There was some controversy in the 1990s when trace amounts of benzene were discovered in some soft drinks that had been stored for long periods of time. This is because under certain conditions, benzoic acid or benzoate ion can decarboxylate (i.e. lose its carboxylic acid group) to form carbon dioxide (CO2) and benzene, which is a known carcinogen. Two possible mechanisms for this decarboxylation reaction are shown below (Britt, P. F., et al. (1999, August). "Mechanistic investigations into the decarboxylation of aromatic carboxylic acids." In Conference: National American Chemical Society Meeting, New Orleans, Los Angeles.).
In addition to the above mechanism, the decarboxylation of benzoic acid in water solution can also be catalyzed by the presence of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and a transition metal such as copper (II) and iron (III) (Gardner, L. K., et al. (1993) "Benzene production from decarboxylation of benzoic acid in the presence of ascorbic acid and a transition-metal catalyst." Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 41(5): 693-695; source). Benzoic acid itself is believed to be relatively non-toxic. Benzene formation is believed to only be a concern if the preparation is stored for long periods of time and at appropriate reaction conditions that would allow it to form.
Like benzoic acid, sorbic acid was also first discovered as a component of a plant. In this case, sorbic acid was discovered in the berries of the rowan tree, Sorbus aucuparia, in 1859. The antimicrobial effect of sorbic acid was discovered in the late 1930s. Salts of sorbic acid are the preferred form, as they are water soluble. Potassium sorbate is a commonly used salt of sorbic acid.
Levulinic acid is yet another compound first derived from a plant, and later discovered to have an antimicrobial effect. Levulinic acid was first isolated from corn. As with benzoic acid and sorbic acid, you will see the salts of levulinic acid more commonly used in cosmetic formulations.
Compared to parabens and phenoxyethanol, the food-grade preservatives
including benzoic acid, sorbic acid and levulinic acid, are not as
effective at inhibiting microbial growth. Typically you will see these
preservatives in processed foods that have a limited shelf life or else
they have special storage considerations, such as refrigeration or
packaging with an air-tight seal. When used in cosmetics, the shelf life
of the formulation is somewhat shorter compared to comparable
formulations containing parabens or phenoxyethanol. Also, their
antimicrobial activity is limited to formulations that are acidic (pH
< 7), which limits the type of formulation they may be used in. In
order to boost their efficacy, different food-grade preservatives are
often combined to inhibit a broader range of microbes.
The Diane Lai body lotions contain sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, but note that these lotions are also packaged in an air-excluding pump, which helps to protect the formulation.
One of the original green/eco brands, Neal's Yard Remedies products
incorporate levulinic acid or sodium levulinate, the sodium salt of
levulinic acid.
By now, I hope you will have seen a theme here: all of the preservatives I have reviewed thus far, including parabens and phenoxyethanol,
are naturally occurring in various plants. All of these compounds serve
the same purpose in plants as they do in cosmetic formulations: to
protect from microbial growth, particularly fungal growth. For this
reason, antimicrobial agents are often found in flowers and fruits,
which are particularly prone to microbial attack, as they are loaded
with sugars and nutrients. From an evolutionary standpoint, it makes
sense for plants to protect these parts from microbes, as it is
important for the plant to preserve the freshness of its flowers for
pollinators and its fruits for passing birds and animals to consume (and
then carry its seeds to other locations). It just so happens that
parabens are very weakly estrogenic, while phenoxyethanol has negative
side effects if consumed in high enough quantities: this again
underlines the fact that just because something is natural does not mean
it is automatically good for you! The food-grade preservatives appear
to carry the least amount of risk but they are also not as effective as
preservatives in cosmetic formulations. As stated before, it's up to the
consumer to decide how much risk they are willing to take on when
deciding on a beauty product.
On a personal note: apologies for my absence last week. Things got really crazy over the past two weeks and I am just catching my breath now. Doing my best to get back on track now! I am still working on my major review of a new brand, which I hope to complete soon.
In other news, Google Reader was retired on July 1. If you were using Google Reader and you don't have a Blogger account, you can continue to follow via Feedly as well as Bloglovin, Facebook and Twitter (for these last three, please click the appropriate media follow button over to the right).
Soya sauce contains sodium benzoate. |
These preservatives are growing in popularity, particularly in the
green/eco segment of the beauty market, mainly due to the negative press
surrounding parabens, and to a lesser extent, phenoxyethanol (see
earlier reviews of parabens here and phenoxyethanol here), and the belief that food-grade preservatives are safer to use. Let's take a closer look at them!Benzoic acid has a long history, having been discovered back in the sixteenth century. It is the chief component of benzoin gum, a resin derived from several species of trees in the genus Styrax. It is also found in many other plants, particularly plants with berry fruit (e.g. cranberries, bilberries). Its antimicrobial effect was first noticed in 1875, and it has been used as a food preservative since then.
Harvesting resin from a Styrax benzoin tree; the dried resin is sold as benzoin gum. |
Benzoic acid
|
There was some controversy in the 1990s when trace amounts of benzene were discovered in some soft drinks that had been stored for long periods of time. This is because under certain conditions, benzoic acid or benzoate ion can decarboxylate (i.e. lose its carboxylic acid group) to form carbon dioxide (CO2) and benzene, which is a known carcinogen. Two possible mechanisms for this decarboxylation reaction are shown below (Britt, P. F., et al. (1999, August). "Mechanistic investigations into the decarboxylation of aromatic carboxylic acids." In Conference: National American Chemical Society Meeting, New Orleans, Los Angeles.).
Proposed reaction mechanisms for decarboxylation of benzoic acid under acidic conditions, such as commonly found in food and drinks. Benzene is the simple 6-member aromatic ring shown as the final compound in each reaction pathway (1) and (2). (Source) |
In addition to the above mechanism, the decarboxylation of benzoic acid in water solution can also be catalyzed by the presence of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and a transition metal such as copper (II) and iron (III) (Gardner, L. K., et al. (1993) "Benzene production from decarboxylation of benzoic acid in the presence of ascorbic acid and a transition-metal catalyst." Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 41(5): 693-695; source). Benzoic acid itself is believed to be relatively non-toxic. Benzene formation is believed to only be a concern if the preparation is stored for long periods of time and at appropriate reaction conditions that would allow it to form.
Like benzoic acid, sorbic acid was also first discovered as a component of a plant. In this case, sorbic acid was discovered in the berries of the rowan tree, Sorbus aucuparia, in 1859. The antimicrobial effect of sorbic acid was discovered in the late 1930s. Salts of sorbic acid are the preferred form, as they are water soluble. Potassium sorbate is a commonly used salt of sorbic acid.
Berries of the rowan tree; sorbic acid is naturally occurring in these berries. |
Sorbic acid
|
Levulinic acid is yet another compound first derived from a plant, and later discovered to have an antimicrobial effect. Levulinic acid was first isolated from corn. As with benzoic acid and sorbic acid, you will see the salts of levulinic acid more commonly used in cosmetic formulations.
Corn (Zea mays). Commercially available levulinic acid continues to be sourced from corn as it is so abundant. |
Levulinic acid
|
The Diane Lai body lotions contain sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate, but note that these lotions are also packaged in an air-excluding pump, which helps to protect the formulation.
Diane Lai Rejuvenate and Soothe lotions, along with the lip balms; link to review here. |
Neal's Yard Remedies Baby Bath & Shampoo contains levulinic acid. (reviewed earlier here) |
***
On a personal note: apologies for my absence last week. Things got really crazy over the past two weeks and I am just catching my breath now. Doing my best to get back on track now! I am still working on my major review of a new brand, which I hope to complete soon.
In other news, Google Reader was retired on July 1. If you were using Google Reader and you don't have a Blogger account, you can continue to follow via Feedly as well as Bloglovin, Facebook and Twitter (for these last three, please click the appropriate media follow button over to the right).
Today is the deadline for tax returns in Canada, and this year especially, I have been feeling the pinch of pursestrings snapping shut. A long time ago, I read about "The Lipstick Index", the idea that sales of lipstick (and other cosmetics) tend to rise during times of economic uncertainty.
Image borrowed from The Economist (link here) |
The Lipstick Index has been debunked by The Economist but I think the
underlying theory is still correct. Most women are hardwired to feel
that if they can treat themselves to a small luxury like a lipstick, it
will make themselves feel better and not like they are in financial
straits. It is definitely true in my case.
The only problem is that even a lipstick can get pretty expensive these
days. However, my idea of a small luxury is pretty broad. It doesn't
have to be a lipstick, it could be a nice accessory like a belt or
scarf, or a favourite drink from Starbucks - just so long as it provides
good quality and great value without completely emptying the contents
of my wallet.
Aquis Essentials Microfiber Hair Towel ($7.99 at Marshalls; $20 MSRP)
As you might have guessed from my earlier posts on hair care (here and here),
I have been on a mission to find new hair care products. One reason is
that my hair, along with the rest of my body, is most definitely ageing
and changing. What used to work no longer works. My hair is becoming
finer in texture and more prone to damage. These changes have been tough
to deal with as the roots get dirtier more easily but more washing just
results in fragile, dried-out hair and scalp irritation.
Several years ago, I bought the Aquis microfibre hairband from Sephora,
and it seemed ridiculously expensive for what it was (about $14 at the
time, but now about $6 on Amazon here).
However, it has since redeemed itself as I use it daily and it is
excellent as a gentle but effective way of keeping hair dry and secure
under a shower cap, on those days when I am not washing my hair. When I
spotted this towel by the same company at Marshalls for the bargain
price of $7.99, I snapped it up.
The microfiber material is woven from ultrafine polyester microfibers
that provide a huge amount of surface area compared to a regular cotton
towel. As a result, this microfiber fabric is super absorbent, as well
as being soft, lightweight and compact.
As promised, it dries hair extremely fast while being super gentle. It
has cut down on the time required for hair drying by about a half, which
in turn means less damage to hair. I have been using it for a month
now, along with my new shampoo and conditioner (review coming soon), and
my hair and scalp have not felt this healthy in a really long time.
Bumble & Bumble Styling Lotion ($17 at Marshalls; $30 MSRP)
Up until now I have been using Kiehl's Climate Proof Shine-Enhancing Spray (earlier review here),
but truth be told, it's expensive and I had an eye out for a cheaper
alternative. I spotted this at Marshalls going for $17, and took a look
at the ingredient list...
...and surprise, it's actually pretty decent - unlike the Kiehl's spray,
this has no acrylate polymers, instead using hydroxypropyltrimonium
honey* to provide the main thickening and stiffening effect. Also, no
formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, instead using phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin.
Another big plus, synthetic fragrance (a given in hair styling
products) appears as the very last ingredient, suggesting that I could
expect low scent.
After drying with the microfiber towel, I apply a few spritzes of this
hair spray and blow dry as usual. As expected from the honey content and
lack of acrylates, this hair spray provides a very light hold, much
less than the Kiehl's spray. The scent is a pleasant, faint citrusy
smell that fades away soon after spraying. After a month of use, I have
not noticed any scalp or skin irritation (always a hazard with trying
new hair styling products), so that was another big plus. This was such a
good buy, I went and scooped a back-up bottle on another trip to
Marshalls. It is still going for $30 at places like Sephora, so if you
can find it at Marshalls or Winners, grab it as it is an excellent deal.
(*This is a chemical derivative of honey, wherein the sugars found in
honey have had a polymer with a permanent positive charge in the form
of a quaternary ammonium attached to them, thus making the honey more
amenable for use as a hair conditioner. After shampooing, the protein in
hair tends to be negatively charged. On the microscopic level, the
cuticle of each hair shaft, which looks like overlapping fish scales,
lifts up and away from the core of the shaft. This causes hair to feel
rough and dry to the touch. A hair conditioner will often contain
positively charged polymers that are attracted to the negative charges
on the hair shaft, and help smooth the cuticle, thus giving smooth and
shiny hair.)
Joe Fresh Shine Lipstick ($6 at Real Canada Supercentre and selected Loblaws)
And yes, I did get a lipstick.
I have reviewed Joe Fresh eyeshadow before here and nailpolish here,
and it looks like their lip cosmetics are just as good as the other
items I have tried. The prices are the same or less than even the
cheapest drugstore brands but the quality is still there. Although this
is a conventional formulation, and thus contains synthetic pigments
(which I was expecting), you still get some nice ingredients, like
beeswax, shea butter, jojoba oil and Vitamins C and E. For $6, it's
pretty good!
This packaging and the feel of the formulation are similar to Clinique's
Almost Lipstick, but the colour palette is definitely trendier,
including fuschia, coral and scarlet red. I chose the bright pink
"Kiss/Baiser", which looks bright bubble gum pink in the tube, and goes
on as a sheer wash of clear, bright pink.
Swatched on the underside of my forearm. |
This is an unfragranced and unflavoured formulation, which is a big
plus. I like layering this over a brown-toned neutral lip colour like
Laura Mercier Sheer Lipstick in "Bare Lips". The bright pink is very
cheerful.
What's your beauty strategy when you are pinching pennies? Do you buy little indulgences or cut them out altogether?