Recent Articles
Life is like a book, and as with any book there are chapters. The same applies to things like careers and in this case a blog. As you can see the site has a new design, hopefully a bit more polished than the last. The design and format of the site should not reflect more of a magazine feel, as the articles I publish are more equivalent to magazine articles than short blog entries.
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The Ingredient of the Week is ascorbic acid, also known as Vitamin C.
L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) |
(For earlier discussions of Vitamin C, see here and here.)
Ascorbic acid occurs naturally in both plants and animals, but humans lack the ability to synthesize it so it must be obtained through our diet. Ascorbic acid is required for numerous biochemical pathways in the human body, including the biosynthesis of collagen, which is an important structural component of connective and epithelial tissue (which includes skin). A deficiency in Vitamin C gives rise to scurvy, a potentially fatal disease if not treated in time.
James Lind, a Scottish physician who carried out some of the first recorded clinical experiments, showing that citrus fruits could be used to treat and prevent scurvy. |
Oxidation of ascorbic acid; last step carried out in the presence of a metal ion, in this case silver (Ag+). |
One way to preserve the activity of Vitamin C is to combine it with other antioxidants, the idea being that the presence of other antioxidants will compete for reaction with free radicals. An example of such an antioxidant is Vitamin E (also known as tocopherol).
alpha-Tocopherol (Vitamin E) |
Cross section of epidermis |
Cellex-C High Potency Serum (see below for ingredient list) is the original Vitamin C serum, introduced in 1994. It is a straightforward formulation of 10% ascorbic acid in water, along with acetyl tyrosine (an amino acid), zinc sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, and bioflavanoids derived from green tea (Camellia sinensis). It is free of any extraneous ingredients: it is fragrance- and colorant-free, as well as being free of preservatives.
Cellex-C High Potency Serum (available in Toronto at The Anti-Aging Store) |
Dr. Lisa Kellett is a well-known dermatologist based in Toronto. Along with a cosmetic dermatology practice, she also has her own skin care line. Thanks to Helen Vong, editor-in-chief of TheSkiny.com, I got the chance to review Dr. Kellett's Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum (see below for ingredient list).
Kellett Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum (available in Toronto at DLK on Avenue; also available online HERE) |
The form of Vitamin C found in the Kellett serum is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, which is an oil-soluble derivative of ascorbic acid. As tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is oil-soluble, it can penetrate the skin much more readily than ascorbic acid. According to the formulators of this serum, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate penetrates the skin three times higher than ascorbic acid, when both are applied at the same concentration. The Kellett serum contains additional antioxidants, Vitamin E (tocopherol), green tea extract, and ethylhexyl ferulate (an oil-soluble form of ferulic acid, a plant-derived antioxidant). The combination of antioxidants acts to stabilize each other and thus increase their overall effectiveness, as well as increase the shelf-life and stability of the formulation.
Finally, the Kellett serum contains tridecyl salicylate, an oil-soluble derivative of salicylic acid, a chemical exfoliant which serves to further refine skin texture. It is free of fragrance, colorants, and preservatives.
The Kellett serum is comparable to SkinCeuticals C+E Ferulic Skin Serum (see earlier review here). Although the Kellett serum comes with instructions to apply every other night, I decided to follow the same regimen as with the SkinCeuticals serum, i.e. applying in the morning, followed by SPF 30 sunscreen over top, before heading out for the day, the idea being to use the antioxidants in the serum to protect skin against oxidative damage from environmental exposure during the course of the day. However, due to the presence of the salicylate, those with sensitive skin should stick with applying the serum at night, and be sure to wear sunscreen during the day.
Because this is a silicone solution, it is appears as a very thin, oily liquid that absorbs quickly with a very fast dry-down, so you have to spread very quickly before it absorbs. When I first started using this, I used about 5 drops, but found that after about a week of this regimen, I started to break out and I was getting a lot of plugged pores. From long experience, I know that silicone-based formulations don't work well on my oilier, stress-prone skin type, and so I was not surprised that I had this initial reaction to the Kellett serum. (Besides the breakouts, too much of it makes my skin feel uncomfortable and slightly itchy.) I cut back to 2-3 drops per application, working quickly to apply a very thin film, and that has worked out better for me - no breakouts and far fewer plugged pores. If you have a similar issue with silicone-based formulations, I think the key to this one is to apply very sparingly.
The Kellett serum definitely helps to boost radiance and to refine skin texture. Unlike the Cellex-C serum, the Kellett serum is colourless. More importantly, it does not appear to change colour over time, and it does not need to be refrigerated. The Kellett serum has almost no odour at all, a big plus compared to the SkinCeuticals serum, which had a strong, unpleasant odour of amines, similar to uncooked hotdogs. This serum is recommended for its ease of use, and its anti-ageing and skin-protective effects.
*In this review: Cellex-C High Potency Serum was purchased by me; Kellett Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum courtesy of TheSkiny.Com and DLK on Avenue. Thank you to Helen Vong, editor-in-chief of TheSkiny.Com for the opportunity to review the Kellett serum. This review is cross-posted to TheSkiny.Com, an e-magazine dedicated to the latest in beauty and dermatology - please check it out here!
***
IngredientsCellex-C High Potency Serum: water, ascorbic acid, acetyl tyrosine, zinc sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, bioflavanoids (from Camellia sinensis).
Kellett Topical Vitamin C Ferulic Serum: cyclomethicone, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, tridecyl salicylate, dimethiconol, hexyldecanol, bisabolol, cetyl cetyl hydroxyproline palmitate, stearic acid, rapeseed sterols, tocopherol, ethylhexyl ferulate, Camellia oleifera (green tea) extract.
A couple months ago, I was hunting through the magazine racks at the
bookstore, and stumbled across this title that I had never seen before.
|
The Economist has always been one of my favourite publications, and I
read it whenever I have the chance, but as the title suggests, it is
mainly concerned with economics, business and politics, with a tiny
sprinkling of "lighter topics" in the last few pages of the magazine. I
was intrigued by "Intelligent Life" because it is under The Economist
brand, but it covers a wide range of topics outside of the regular
purview of The Economist: culture, the arts, travel, and in particular, fashion and style! Who would have ever thought a magazine associated with The Economist would talk about fashion?
In the March/April 2013 issue, there was a fantastic article entitled "Clothes: A Manifesto" by Rebecca Willis (read it here).
It is a hugely fascinating article on many different counts as it is sums up the results of a "straw poll" survey about what real women want from fashion. They really managed to capture the current mood as I am seeing it when I look at the blogs in my sphere of acquaintance: that women are looking for good quality, functional and beautiful clothing and finding such clothing these days is a Herculean task. It is sharply critical of the fashion industry as failing to listen to the women they are supposed to be catering to and for force-feeding us mountains of clothes that are badly designed and poorly made. Here are a few favourite quotes from the article along with my personal thoughts.
Do you have a fashion manifesto, or are you in the process of forming one?
It is a hugely fascinating article on many different counts as it is sums up the results of a "straw poll" survey about what real women want from fashion. They really managed to capture the current mood as I am seeing it when I look at the blogs in my sphere of acquaintance: that women are looking for good quality, functional and beautiful clothing and finding such clothing these days is a Herculean task. It is sharply critical of the fashion industry as failing to listen to the women they are supposed to be catering to and for force-feeding us mountains of clothes that are badly designed and poorly made. Here are a few favourite quotes from the article along with my personal thoughts.
"Women are sick of low quality, overpriced, poorly made, ill-fitting clothes that don't last"
This is my common gripe these days. When I have the chance to browse the fashions at the mall, I am always disappointed to find how poorly made everything seems to be. Even J. Crew, my long-time favourite has started to let me down in recent years. The quality has almost completely disappeared from their regular line and only glimmers of the original quality may be found in their astronomically-priced Collection line. Tailored items that used to be fully lined in acetate and sometimes silk are now unlined, or else lined in polyester that is suffocatingly hot to wear. Jackets that used to have self lining or silk repp tie lining under the collar now have the felt interfacing exposed for all to see (I think they are trying to convince people this is normal but it is not! It is a cheap shortcut!). Fabrics that used to be thick and luxuriant to the touch are now flimsy or coarse, and often with a synthetic content.
Now: Blythe silk blouse, J. Crew spring 2012. Made of very thin, sheer silk. The fabric shredded after the first wash, which was done by hand in cold water with delicate wash detergent. |
I suspect this decline in quality has to do with the push to match the output of fast fashion retailers like Zara and H & M, who bring new inventory in every few weeks. It might also have something to do with the push to globalize and meet the demands of populations around the world. Something has to give and I guess from the management's point of view, quality is the first thing to go.
"When we asked women to rate their interest in fashion and style out of 10, style trumped fashion overwhelmingly."
YSL's quote, "Fashions fade, style is eternal" holds true, and I think it is the reason why style icons like Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis have such enduring appeal: these were women who were absolutely assured of their personal style.
Audrey Hepburn in trademark funnelneck coat. |
Jackie O in classic white shift dress and Ferragamo shoes. |
However, I think most women can attest to the fact that finding one's personal style is pretty difficult, especially in this age, when a woman is expected to wear many different hats all at once: career woman, domestic goddess, wife/girl friend, mother, etc. This is the reason I was drawn into the world of personal style blogs, because they are supposed to give a glimpse into the style of the average woman. Fashion magazines like Vogue present highly stylized images that are beautiful to look at but have very little to do with real life. However, even in the world of style blogs, it seems like many are becoming more and more like a high fashion magazine and have little to do with real life. I find that the best style blogs are the ones by real women with lives and careers outside of the fashion industry, the ones that discuss the little things and small events that make up everyday life and how a good outfit can carry that person through the day.
"What is surprising...is how poorly served older women still feel by the fashion industry."
This is so very true. I often feel completely at a loss when I look over the clothes available at the malls. Most new fashions are directed to women in their teens and 20s, and are modelled by girls who are barely 20 years old. Most fashions which are marketed to the woman who is in her late 30s and upwards are completely dull and uninspiring. I have this to say to fashion retailers: just because we are over 35 does not mean that we want to be invisible!Anyway, I wanted to share this with you and find out if you are also thinking similar thoughts. My own fashion "manifesto" so far is to try to stay true to my personal vision of myself and not to be swayed by current fads. It helps to unsubscribe from all these emails trumpeting "new! just in!" and it also helps that I am no longer reading the popular style blogs. It also helps that I no longer look at H & M and Zara, and I have cut back severely on J. Crew. At the moment, I am coming up empty-handed: there is nothing that seems to suit my vision of my personal style, and that comes up to my standards of quality and fit, while remaining within budget. I guess it will be an on-going quest.
Do you have a fashion manifesto, or are you in the process of forming one?
***
Intelligent Life is a bimonthly magazine. The content is available for free at www.moreintelligentlife.com
but I highly recommend getting your hands on the print magazine if you
can. The thoughtful design and photography, none of which can be seen
online, make it more than worth the price. The style section is
especially informative as it is written by people who understand the
industry but are writing it with a balanced perspective that is
universally appealing. The current edition features a fascinating
profile on Sarah Burton, the designer who took over Alexander McQueen's
design house after his death.
Happy Friday!
Happy Friday!
This week's Ingredient is phenoxyethanol.
2-phenoxy-1-ethanol |
As mentioned in last week's review of parabens,
it is becoming more and more popular to market products as being
"paraben-free". In such products, phenoxyethanol is commonly used as a
replacement for parabens in the formulation. Seeing as its popularity as
a preservative is only bound to rise in the face of all the negative
press regarding parabens, it is worth taking a closer look at
phenoxyethanol.
Phenoxyethanol acts as a bactericide, by inhibiting synthesis of nucleic
acids in bacteria, as well as acting on bacterial cell walls by causing
them to become more permeable to potassium ions (see Gilbert et al., Microbios. 1977;19(75):17-26; Microbios. 1977;19(76):125-41.).
It is effective against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria
as well as yeast. It is also used as an antiseptic, tissue preservative,
and organic solvent. It is naturally occurring in certain green teas.
Phenoxyethanol is present in concentrations of up to 5% in a skin care
formulation, typically in concentrations of around 1%; in Europe, it is
allowable in concentrations up to 1% with the provision that it may be
included in higher concentrations if it is to be used for other purposes
besides a preservative (see J. Am. Col. Toxicol. v. 9, no. 2, 1990; link)
The main selling point of phenoxyethanol is that is does not have the
weak estrogen-mimicking activity of the parabens. From the formulator's
point of view, although it is slightly more expensive than parabens, it
has similar formulation characteristics to the parabens, making it a
fairly straightforward replacement (I should mention here, the cost of
raw ingredients for creating skin care products is a major factor when
deciding what ingredients to include in a formulation).
It is accepted as a safe cosmetic preservative by government regulatory
agencies in the U.S., Europe and Japan. However, it has not been
entirely free of controversy. Like many other organic solvents,
phenoxyethanol is known to be a depressant of the central nervous system
and an irritant that may cause vomiting and diarrhea, if exposed at
high enough concentrations. In 2008, the FDA published a warning against
Mommy's Bliss Nipple Cream for use by nursing mothers, as it contained
both phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin, another preservative known to
have harmful effects on the central nervous system (link: original FDA report).
Many children's toiletry products that are marketed as paraben-free
contain phenoxyethanol as the preservative. An example is the Treehouse
body lotion I reviewed earlier (see here).
Treehouse Unscented Body Lotion by Nature Clean
(see review here)
|
When deciding what skin care products to buy for yourself or your
family, one has to balance risk versus benefit. As with the parabens,
the precautionary principle applies. In the case of children's products
like a nipple cream or a lip balm, something that is obviously going to
be ingested by a young child, then it is definitely not worth the risk of exposure. (As mentioned in my review of the Treehouse lotion here,
one has to be particularly vigilant about what chemicals children are
exposed to.) However, for most other products that are going to be
applied topically to either skin or hair, then the presence of
phenoxyethanol is probably not a significant concern since the amount of
phenoxyethanol absorbed through the skin is likely far too low to
trigger the symptoms noted above.
As always, I continue to look for safe alternatives and will report as I
find them. I have an extensive review coming soon on a series of
products that does not contain either parabens or phenoxyethanol -
please stay tuned!