A couple months ago, I was hunting through the magazine racks at the
bookstore, and stumbled across this title that I had never seen before.
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The Economist Intelligent Life, March/April 2013 and May/June 2013 issues. |
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The Economist has always been one of my favourite publications, and I
read it whenever I have the chance, but as the title suggests, it is
mainly concerned with economics, business and politics, with a tiny
sprinkling of "lighter topics" in the last few pages of the magazine. I
was intrigued by "Intelligent Life" because it is under The Economist
brand, but it covers a wide range of topics outside of the regular
purview of The Economist: culture, the arts, travel, and in particular, fashion and style! Who would have ever thought a magazine associated with The Economist would talk about fashion?
In the March/April 2013 issue, there was a fantastic article entitled "
Clothes: A Manifesto" by Rebecca Willis (read it
here).
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In the article subtitle, it says "They want more style, less speed - and more sleeves."
The lack of sleeves is a complaint I hear all the time.
They should have mentioned a lack of dresses and skirts that have a hemline at or below the knee. |
It is a hugely fascinating article on many different counts as it is
sums up the results of a "straw poll" survey about what real women want
from fashion. They really managed to capture the current mood as I am
seeing it when I look at the blogs in my sphere of acquaintance: that
women are looking for good quality, functional and beautiful clothing
and finding such clothing these days is a Herculean task. It is sharply
critical of the fashion industry as failing to listen to the women they
are supposed to be catering to and for force-feeding us mountains of
clothes that are badly designed and poorly made. Here are a few
favourite quotes from the article along with my personal thoughts.
"Women are sick of low quality, overpriced, poorly made, ill-fitting clothes that don't last"
This is my common gripe these days. When I have the chance to browse the
fashions at the mall, I am always disappointed to find how poorly made
everything seems to be. Even J. Crew, my long-time favourite has started
to let me down in recent years. The quality has almost completely
disappeared from their regular line and only glimmers of the original
quality may be found in their astronomically-priced Collection
line. Tailored items that used to be fully lined in acetate and
sometimes silk are now unlined, or else lined in polyester that is
suffocatingly hot to wear. Jackets that used to have self lining or silk
repp tie lining under the collar now have the felt interfacing exposed
for all to see (I think they are trying to convince people this is
normal but it is not! It is a cheap shortcut!). Fabrics that used to be
thick and luxuriant to the touch are now flimsy or coarse, and often
with a synthetic content.
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Then: Coppelle paisley silk twill top, J. Crew spring 2008.
Made of substantial mid-weight silk twill that is completely opaque;
features self-binding on the inside of the neckline so that it lies flat and does not buckle.
Five years old and in perfect condition. |
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Now: Blythe silk blouse, J. Crew spring 2012.
Made of very thin, sheer silk. The fabric shredded
after the first wash, which was done by hand in cold water with delicate wash detergent. |
I suspect this decline in quality has to do with the push to match the
output of fast fashion retailers like Zara and H & M, who bring new
inventory in every few weeks. It might also have something to do with
the push to globalize and meet the demands of populations around the
world. Something has to give and I guess from the management's point of
view, quality is the first thing to go.
"When we asked women to rate their interest in fashion and style out of 10, style trumped fashion overwhelmingly."
YSL's quote, "Fashions fade, style is eternal" holds true, and I think
it is the reason why style icons like Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline
Kennedy Onassis have such enduring appeal: these were women who were
absolutely assured of their personal style.
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Audrey Hepburn in trademark funnelneck coat. |
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Jackie O in classic white shift dress and Ferragamo shoes. |
However, I think most women can attest to the fact that finding one's
personal style is pretty difficult, especially in this age, when a woman
is expected to wear many different hats all at once: career woman,
domestic goddess, wife/girl friend, mother, etc. This is the reason I
was drawn into the world of personal style blogs, because they are
supposed to give a glimpse into the style of the average woman. Fashion
magazines like Vogue present highly stylized images that are beautiful
to look at but have very little to do with real life. However, even in
the world of style blogs, it seems like many are becoming more and more
like a high fashion magazine and have little to do with real life. I
find that the best style blogs are the ones by real women with lives and
careers outside of the fashion industry, the ones that discuss the
little things and small events that make up everyday life and how a good
outfit can carry that person through the day.
"What is surprising...is how poorly served older women still feel by the fashion industry."
This is so very true. I often feel completely at a loss when I look over
the clothes available at the malls. Most new fashions are directed to
women in their teens and 20s, and are modelled by girls who are barely
20 years old. Most fashions which are marketed to the woman who is in
her late 30s and upwards are completely dull and uninspiring. I have
this to say to fashion retailers: just because we are over 35 does not
mean that we want to be invisible!
Anyway, I wanted to share this with you and find out if you are also
thinking similar thoughts. My own fashion "manifesto" so far is to try
to stay true to my personal vision of myself and not to be swayed by
current fads. It helps to unsubscribe from all these emails trumpeting
"new! just in!" and it also helps that I am no longer reading the
popular style blogs. It also helps that I no longer look at H & M
and Zara, and I have cut back severely on J. Crew. At the moment, I am
coming up empty-handed: there is nothing that seems to suit my vision of
my personal style, and that comes up to my standards of quality and
fit, while remaining within budget. I guess it will be an on-going
quest.
Do you have a fashion manifesto, or are you in the process of forming one?
Intelligent Life is a bimonthly magazine. The content is available for free at
www.moreintelligentlife.com
but I highly recommend getting your hands on the print magazine if you
can. The thoughtful design and photography, none of which can be seen
online, make it more than worth the price. The style section is
especially informative as it is written by people who understand the
industry but are writing it with a balanced perspective that is
universally appealing. The current edition features a fascinating
profile on Sarah Burton, the designer who took over Alexander McQueen's
design house after his death.
Happy Friday!
The past few years have seen an explosion of bright colour, to the point
that it started to feel like sensory overload. Not surprisingly, the
fashion pendulum has started to swing the other way. Black and white is
one of the major trends for spring/summer 2013.
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From Instyle Magazine (source) |
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I used to work in a very conservative, corporate environment, which was
reflected in my day-to-day wardrobe. These days, I can dress much more
casually but I can also be more creative. Being a busy mother on the go
means that there is the constant temptation to slide backwards into
wearing jeans and tee-shirt all the time - it's easy, and takes zero
thought and effort. However, I have read numerous studies that show
that people who work outside of a traditional office setting get more
accomplished if they make the effort to dress up. It would be nice to
find an easy "uniform" that is comfortable enough to let me keep up with
the kids, while still looking polished enough for getting some serious
work done. and also conveying something about my personal style. On top
of that, the outfit has to be age appropriate - I am not looking for
crazy trends here. The combination of black and white really speaks to
me as it is so sharp looking but still all in neutrals. Plus, I have
always been fond of outfits with a high contrast, graphic punch. Here is
a recent outfit....
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J. Crew Nolita white denim jacket;
J. Crew black/ivory stripe silk slip dress (from a couple years ago, the name escapes me) |
Although designers were showing looks with head-to-toe black and white,
including all the accessories, I find it is a little harsh in real life
and I suspect it will look dated pretty soon. I like to break it up with
accessories in a softer colour, like rich cognac brown.
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Wallace & Barnes leather belt (old) |
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Bag'N'Noun mini tool bag; J. Crew leather ballet flats (old) |
When wearing a palette of black and white, I thought it would fun to
wear a bright, sheer lip colour and then keep everything else neutral.
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Clinique Chubby Stick Intense in "05-Plushest Punch",
blotted down to a stain - sheer but still very intense
(reviewed earlier here). |
The black/white palette looks great on men too. I got this shirt for M a
while back. I love black and white gingham, it looks cool, crisp and
sharp all at the same time. We decided to punch it up a bit with some
pattern play.
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Boss dress shirt in black/white gingham;
Boss tie in pale tan/black/red check. |
Are you partaking in black and white these season?